Made my way down to Headquarters in Durham, NC today for the Friday cupping. The week’s table featured the Panama Esmeralda, which was conspicuously missing all those quakers this year. Sadly, that did not prevent its mouth puckering tartness, still prominent in the finish and aftertaste. Don’t get me wrong, it has a bushel full of fruity flavors packed in layers of floral complexity. This is a very unusual coffee in that respect. But still, the disappointingly thin (tea-like) body rolls over into grape skin and banana peel astringency. It continues to escape me why everyone gives a pass to those aspects of this most sought after coffee. There is all that burgomot and citrus, but it is not, to my taste, the total package. It is, nonetheless, a peculiar curiosity.
I am not a roaster, but I can’t help but wonder if a shade or two darker might tame its wild heart.