Archive for October, 2010
For the fourth year in a row Gerra Harrigan (New Harvest Coffee) and Troy Reynard (Cosmic Cup) have organized the Mid Atlantic North Eastern Barist Jam, but this has always exceeded the narrow description of a Jam, and is now called a conference. I have been saying it is more of a convention for the three years that I have participated. Using the headquarters of New Harvest Coffee in Providence RI was a huge success. There were six espresso machines (if you count the two in the training room), oodles of manual brewing devices, loads of beer, and for the lucky few, there was home made apple brandy, coffee liqueur, and slightly aged whiskey. Somebody up there has a still in a secret location, and apparently they know what to do with it.
Yesterday someone asked me to tell them my three high points. Here they are in order of greatness (to me anyway):
1- The point of the conference, in my opinion, is not just to have the opportunity for accomplished Baristas to rub elbows and network with other great coffee personalities. It is raise the level of knowledge, to educate, to create a greater sense of professionalism. There was a young woman named Emily from a local shop called Honey Do Doughnuts. She uses a super-auto machine, and has never dosed, distributed, or otherwise handled a portafilter. She heard about the conference and, of her own volition, sought us out (the specialty coffee people) to learn more about the craft. I took here on a dizzying crash course of Barista craft while scrambling to calibrate the tricky Malkhonig K-30 grinders just prior to the spro down. Quickly explaining what I was doing, and why, I crammed as much as I could into her brain for a few short minutes. It is important to me that everyone attending get the message there is no place for elitist and self aggrandizing attitudes in our little part of the industry. I hope she came away with a positive perspective and the desire to continue to learn more.
2- As the representative of one the sponsoring companies, I was given 10 minutes to tell a bit about the company. I recited our (Counter Culture Coffee) mission statement.
-Counter Culture Coffee is a relentless pursuit of coffee perfection
-We strive to achieve real social, economic, and environmental sustainability in all our endeavors
-We create cutting edge coffee people
That about sums it up.
3- For the last two MANEs, I worked sort of behind the scenes in a technical and logistical support capacity. This year I was asked to be a feature presenter. This was a terribly great honor for me, and I hope to never lose sight of the fact that I am in no way a super brain of coffee knowledge, and that there are many, many others as worthy or more than I am to speak on such matters.
For a close tie in fourth place would be hanging out with all the great bunch of coffee professionals who ended up getting sent away from on bar in downtown Providence, and ended up the true hang out, the Red Fez. This was equally matched with meeting the big bunch from Buffalo, the big bunch from Joe in NYC, working with host and organizers, spending time with my co-workers, and partying with the crew from Aldo Coffee of Pittsburgh. All others I ran into, chatted up, or otherwise interacted with, this goes for you all too.
This is the New Harvest training room.
Here is Troy of Cosmic, Rik of New Harvest, and Jay of Spro
Tommy, the Counter Culture Tech Guy, plumbing in a dedicated Shot Brewer
Jay gives a mock speech to an empty room
Among other coffee shops, we visited White Electric to see their cool (actually hot) lever machine
The discussion panel talked of the coffee career path, with special attention paid to women specific strategies
David Schomer, who was invited, said he is happier working in his shops, but did send this autographed glossy
We saw the Providence River Pyres, I’m not even going to try to explain this
Sorry about half of John’s face from Aldo, Troy of Cosmic, Ani of Aldo, Jess also of Aldo. Not to omit or offend any of the other dozens of great people, but these were good times with this bunch.
See you next year!
Julie Housh, MidAtlantic BGA representative, was in Providence last weekend repping the BGA, signing up new memberships and promoting Camp Pull a Shot. Go to the BGA web site and sign up when you have the scratch, and then you can stop complaining that people don’t take you seriously as a Barista. Advance the professionalism, Hun!
I came across this coffee shop in Pittsburgh, and I really liked so many things about it. Unfortunately, there were several things that seemed to go unnoticed by the owner, and she was left confused and baffled how to generate more revenue. She had shrunk the labor costs by having practically no staff and working killer hours herself. But like I always tell people in her position, you do not create more business by lowering expenses, sometimes you just short change yourself.
I love this bar design. However, this place has so much room for improvement. The owner was a youngish woman in her early 20s (or mid), who seemed surprised that the bank even gave the loan to buy this place from the previous owner. She seemed concerned about her inability to generate new business besides having what she said was some of the best coffees, pastries, and breads in the city. Well, I made a few quick observations, but it was certainly not my place to make any suggestions. Had I been a good friend, or asked by her to consult, these are the key points I would have made, and it is a good lesson for anyone else out there trying to make a run at the coffee business:
-The equipment is very old, not necessary to replace it, but up-keep is important. Specifically, clean them up so they look good at least, and replace the grinder hopper, which is filthy.
-The bar is so cool and generates an awesome customer/Barista dynamic, clear away the newspapers that are 4, 3, and 2 weeks old, just keep the current one. Unlcutter.
-Reduce the crazy number of syrups down to maybe the top four sellers and free up the revenue that is tied up in that wide spectrum of seldom used flavors.
-The pastries and breads you are so proud of are displayed in zip lock bags and stored in a grimy and unlit case. Give them a display worthy of their goodness, show the customer what you think of them by the setting in which you place them. Some nice plates, glass domes, and a little windex would do the trick.
-Clean up the basic stuff; dust, accumulated dirt, scrub the floors really well, get rid of all the old news paper clippings and random notes taped to the walls behind the counter. Put them in a scrapbook and organize a clean display for new ones.
-Find a discrete location for your computer, don’t sit in front of all your customers on the laptop at the end of the circle and FaceBook away your slow afternoons. Look like you are participating in your own coffee shop rather than looking like you are waiting to clock out.
-The coffee itself is mediocre quality brewed on poorly maintained, (not to mention ugly) machinery, and made in a technically incorrect manner for good extraction. The SCAA, and probably your own roaster, can give you classes on coffee brewing and espresso extraction. Understand the industry standards in which you operate.
There is actually a lot that can be done without changing food or coffee vendors or replacing any equipment. Just clean the place from floor to ceiling and get rid of the clutter. There is a bustling neighborhood right outside the door, and business is dwindling because the atmosphere is just a little dingier than it needs to be, the food is presented just a little slacker than it could be, the coffee is just a little off from how it could be prepared, and the service seems just a little less interested in the customers than it may really be. It wouldn’t take any extra money to do most all of these things, and would probably generate some badly needed business. It just takes forethought, spunk, and a lot of elbow grease.
When i first moved to Pennsylvania , 3.5 years ago, it might have seemed like a bad time for a coffee guy in Philadelphia. It wasn’t that there was no coffee. An this is the touchy part to talk about. Of course there was coffee; coffee roasters, coffee shops, people who had made it their job to brew and serve coffee. To those who have been here a while and have been doing things the way the standard coffee shop business model has been since, oh, around the 80’s, I honestly do not mean any offense. There has been an awakening in the coffee industry in the last decade, and you (the 80’s and 90’s styled shops) are dangerously close to being that middle aged uncle who thinks he is still with it, and tries to speak hipster talk with the kids. I know, because I am that age and was recently told that I am not cool. I don’t feel bad about it, but I do realize it is something you have to hear from the outside, because you never see it coming yourself.
Imagine, if you will, someone who got a job in a kitchen and has worked as a cook. They have followed the recipes they have been given. They use the available equipment, which has all usually been purchased for convince and cost over quality and style. They push the buttons, they turn the knobs, they cook the meat until it has reached their idea of “done”. Then somebody comes into the restaurant who absolutely loves every detail about food, preparation, technique, styles. They have studied under Master Chefs, read the historical literature, and generally have a completely different perspective on what food is in relation to life, and how to prepare it. They order, they eat, and they are completely unimpressed with the level of quality and skill. Their experience was one of utility, (they needed food), not of culinary pleasure. There is a concept known as the “Arrogance of Ignorance”. This is when someone knows enough about a subject to think that they can talk intelligently about it, but still has no concept about how vast the subject is and how much of it they do not know. This was the state of coffee when I came here. Philadelphia had lots of fast food coffee when I moved here. Even when it was presented in a setting that would indicate a higher level of quality, it was prepared like fast food coffee. Philadelphia was not at all a travel destination for coffee geeks, espresso aficionados, or professional Baristas. I once might have thought that it was not the right time for a coffee guy to move here. But as it turns out, it was the perfect time. Get in on the ground floor. Grow a tap root from seed.
As an employee of a specialty coffee roaster, I struggled with and attempted to nurture the market by working with one Barista and one coffee shop owner at a time. Now, after my association with a very small number of places that now do a great job of presenting quality establishments with great product, I have noticed that there is a booming coffee community that has sprung up around the area like mushrooms after the June rains. I am not claiming to have cultivated this myself, just that I have witnessed it change from how it was. And I want to be perfectly clear on this point, I am not claiming credit for the way Philadelphia has come to embrace specialty coffee. It was starting already when I came here, and I have seen it come so far in a short period.
Recently, after meeting Tom of Bohdi Coffee at the TNT, I went down to visit his shop, a relatively new shop in the old part of town on 2nd street. It is so nice to see a place open up in the city with people who think to use a temperature stable espresso machine (Synesso), employ on demand brewing for freshness, lay out the bar thoughtfully, and incorporate deliberate design into a warm and inviting environment. Tom seemed really intent to participating in a unified coffee community, not competing against his “enemies”. This attitude is one I have tried hare to exhibit in myself, in hopes that by example it may spread. Here is this guy I really don’t know, and he espouses this attitude in all his actions. This is the kind of thing that is happening more and more in the city and the state of PA and DE (my coffee stomping grounds). During my short visit to Bodhi, there were no less then two new shop owners who came in to say hi, both of whom expect to open their doors in the upcoming months.
Tom pulls a shot on the Cyncra.
Partner Bobby built the brew rail, Jen in the background works there part time.
This is across the street from Bohdi, this part of town is so cool.
The market in the Philly has grown up so much, and is well on it’s way to someday soon reaching a state of maturity.